All About Chemistry

Let's talk about skin, baby. Let's talk about you and me. Let's talk about all the good things and the bad things that may be. Let's talk aboooouuuut skin. Let's talk about skin! So 2012 has not exactly gotten off to a stress-free start. Last week this stress decided to show its true colors: all over my face. I woke up one morning to not one, but two massive zits on my chin and the side of my mouth.  My head said, "Play it cool, girl. Grab some concealer and ride it out." My gut said "Eradicate it. Shock and awe. By any means necessary." Guess which instinct won out? And thus, the 8th grade science experiment known as my face  began. For 7 days I repeatedly and mercilessly subjected my skin to random attacks of chemical warfare. $74.97, and one big, red, dry, itchy mess later, I waved my white flag and went back to my skincare basics. And wouldn't you know it, 36 hours later I was itch-free, back to the pallor I call normal, and (almost) completely pimpleless.

So what happened? I threw everything that I knew about my skin and basic skin care out the window in a state of panic. Zits happen. An occasional blemish on the chin does not mean that your skin has suddenly become oily and acne-prone overnight. If you should find yourself in a similar pimple predicament, remain calm. Here's what you need to know to maintain your skin sanity:  

Because you should always check qualifications before accepting advice, here are mine: aside from a lifetime spent reading Glamour, Allure, and InStyle, I worked for a luxury skincare brand for almost a year before attending law school in 2004. Part of my training and orientation included an intense week at skincare school, where I learned how to read product labels and minored in chemistry. Seriously. I'm pretty sure that I retained more information from my one week in Product University than I did from an entire semester in advanced business associations. So let's get started. As a quick disclaimer, this is not one size fits all advice. But it is one size fits most.  

Every good skin care routine contains three elements: a cleanser, an exfoliator, and a moisturizer. Everything else is an add-on. If the product you pick up off of the shelf at Sephora does not fall into one of those three categories, consider it optional. If you have a particular skin challenge, like acne or fine lines, you have my permission to add one treatment item into the mix. Your treatment item will be put on after you cleanse and/or exfoliate and before you moisturize. Keep in mind that I said one treatment item. Not seven. This is your face, not your high school science fair project.   

Step 1: Clean it up! 

I confess, I used to be a complete foaming cleanser junkie. If it did not foam, it did not touch my face. I have since changed my ways. I find that my skin gets just as clean with a non-lathering cleanser as it did with my foams. Whether or not you foam is largely a matter of personal preference, but if you find that your skin feels tight after you wash, consider a switch to a non-foaming cleanser. Need a recommendation?

Foaming: Special Cleansing Gel, Dermalogica, $33.00

If I am in the mood for foam, this is the only foam I'll use. "All skin conditions. A concentrated, soap-free, foaming gel designed to thoroughly remove impurities without disturbing the skin's natural moisture balance. Contains no artificial fragrance or color."

Non-Foaming: Gentle Skin Cleanser, Cetaphil, $18.74 (16 oz. bottle, 2 pack)  

There is a reason this little guy is an award winner (2011 Allure Best of Beauty). This stuff is liquid skin care gold. If your skin is sensitive, dry, or easily irritated, a few days with Cetaphil will put your you back on the right track. "Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser is great for daily makeup removal. Originally formulated for dermatologists, this cleanser is gentle on your skin and sensitive to your skin's needs. Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser will not strip the skin of natural protective oils or emollients, or disturb the skin's natural pH balance. This dermatologist-recommended cleanser is fragrance-free and non-comedogenic."

Green: Vegacol Facial Cleansing Lotion, Aubrey Organics, $15.98

I will admit, I have had a tough time trying to green my skin care routine. Either the cleanser doesn't clean, or I end up dry and red. Vegacol is the first green cleanser that has been as gentle to my delicate Irish skin as Cetaphil. As a bonus, this pearly yellow lotion has a pleasant lemon scent. "Custom-made for skin that needs special attention, this extra-mild, low-scent formula soothes and hydrates sensitive facial skin as it cleanses." 

Bonus Tip: If you find that a non-foaming cleanser is not getting your skin as clean as you would like, don't take this as a sign that you necessarily need a "stronger" cleanser. Instead, try cleansing twice. I have been double cleansing at night for years and it has made all the difference. If I am wearing a lot of makeup, I start with a cleansing oil. You can purchase a cleansing oil product, like this one from Dermalogica or this one from Boscia. But the true talk is that you don't really need one. I have found over the years that baby oil and even grapeseed oil (yes, from the grocery store) work just as well as the more expensive specialty products. Word on the street is that castor oil also removes stubborn eye makeup, but I have not personally tried castor oil, so I can't vouch. Start by applying some of your oil on your DRY face. Rub in for 20-30 seconds, making sure to apply carefully to the eye area to remove makeup. Rinse and follow with your normal cleanser. 

Step 2: Take it Off! 

What is exfoliation and why do you need it? Exfoliation is the removal of the oldest layer of skin cells on the skin's surface. As we age, our skin's natural sloughing mechanisms start to slow down, allowing the dead skin to accumulate on the surface of the skin and making the texture rough and uneven. Here is what Wikipedia has to say about it:

New skin cells are created in the skin's lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements. Through the aging process, and after menopause for women, the natural process of skin erosion becomes uneven, which gives skin a dry and rough character. Exfoliation removes the outer layer to reveal the newer skin beneath. This shedding of the outer layer unclogs pores, keeps skin clean, and helps reduce acne breakouts. 

Exfoliation is simply our way of helping nature along. Exfoliation can be mechanical or chemical. Mechanical exfoliation involves physically removing the dead cells by scrubbing them off with a liquid face scrub, washcloth, or skin care brush. Chemical exfoliation involves dissolving the dead skin cells with acids, namely alpha hydroxy acids (or AHAs like glycolic acid) or beta hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid). 

Mechanical: DDF Advanced Microexfoliation Cleanser, Sephora, $46.00 

If you elect to exfoliate with a scrub, select a scrub that has smooth beads rather than sharp particles. There is a very popular drugstore scrub that uses apricot pieces to scrape off dead skin cells. The sharp pieces in that scrub can actually cause microscopic lacerations on the surface of your skin, which can allow in bacteria. No matter how behind you are in your exfoliation process, think about gently buffing away the dead skin rather than sandblasting it into oblivion. Your face is not a piece of drywall. Save the apricot pieces for your pedicure. This exfoliant from DDF has nice smooth beads that even my finicky skin can tolerate.

Chemical: Botanical Kinetics Exfoliant, Aveda, $20.00  

Don't want to bother with scrubs? This exfoliant was recommended by my esthetician in Portland. Whenever I am feeling a little congested, I pour a little on a cotton pad and swipe over my nose, forehead and chin. Look, ma, no stinging!

Investment: Mia 2 Sonic Skin Cleansing System, Clarisonic, $149.00

If there ever was a skin care game changer, the Clarisonic is it. If I could string a chain around mine and wear it as a necklace, I would. It is just that good. You know that fresh from the dentist clean you get from brushing your teeth with a Sonicare toothbrush? Imagine. That. On. Your. Face. Catch my drift? Seriously. It's like walking around with someone else's perfect skin. If you are double cleansing with the Clarisonic, which I highly recommend, use your hands to wash all of your makeup off first. For your second wash, pour a little bit of your face wash directly on the brush. Hold the brush to your still damp skin, turn it on, and let it do work. 

Step 3: Pour Some Moisture on Me! 

Now some of my oilier sisters may be saying "I don't need a moisturizer. I just need to wash my face and go." Well, you're wrong. You MUST at the very very least slather on a moisturizer with SPF before walking out the door everyday. Personally, I prefer my moisturizer to be the equivalent of my little black dress: simple, elegant, can be dressed up or down, and can handle some serious damage control if things go awry. Heavy fragrances and fussy jars need not apply. Here are my all-stars:

With SPF: La Roche-Posay Anthelios 50 Mineral Ultra Light Sunscreen, La Roche-Posay, $32.95 

Yes, friends, you are once again in the presence of an Allure 2011 Best of Beauty Winner. This sunscreen is so light you will hardly realize it's there. It's also fragrance-free and does not irritate or cause breakouts. Winning!


Note: Mineral sunscreens (sometimes called physical sunblocks) work by physically blocking UV rays from penetrating your skin. Since they sit on top of the skin, you can layer a moisturizer under your sunblock if you are feeling a little dry. Chemical sunscreens must be applied directly to clean skin since they must be absorbed into the skin to work effectively. How do you know the difference between a sunblock and a sunscreen? Check the active ingredients. A sunblock will list zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide as active ingredients. Sunscreens should list avobenzone as an active ingredient. If you see a sunscreen that lists things like homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, and/or oxybenzone but does not list avobenzone among the active ingredients, put it back on the shelf. You need avobenzone to protect against the UVA rays responsible for skin cancer and wrinkles. If you find that sunscreens irritate your skin or cause you to break out in tiny bumps, you may be sensitive to avobenzone; try switching to a sunblock with zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. It's just as effective against UVAs but less irritating to sensitive skin. If you are having trouble finding a sunblock, check the baby aisle. Baby sunblocks are almost always zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide blocks.

Expensive: Active Moist, Dermalogica, $54.00 

Active Moist is light, fragrance-free, and packs a serious hydration punch. When my skin is irritated and angry, Active Moist quickly cools things down. I have also applied Active Moist to sunburned skin and found that it was effective in reducing skin peeling. Dermalogica is one of the few brands that does not put any of its products in jars. Repeatedly dipping your fingers into a product jar can contaminate your moisturizer. For this reason, I consider any moisturizer that has been packaged in a jar to have a strike against it from the outset. I like to moisturize bacteria-free, thankyouverymuch.






Inexpensive: Moisturizing Lotion, CeraVe, Amazon, $15.27 

How I love CeraVe. Let me count the ways. Non-comedogenic and non-irritating. Non-greasy. Non-expensive. In addition to using it all over my face, I have no problems spreading CeraVe over the dry spots on my knees, ankles, and elbows. The bottle is so big that the price works out to less than $1.00 per ounce. Yes and yes.












Green: Super Sensitive Every Day Lotion, California Baby, $11.49 

Is this product intended for use on baby humans? Yes. Can you use it too? Absolutely. I am not generally a huge fan of green moisturizers as many have tacky and/or greasy textures and tend to separate quickly. California Baby is the closest I have ever seen a natural product come to replicating my beloved CeraVe. The ingredients in California Baby are organic and grown sustainably. What I love: it's hypoallergenic! Added bonuses: it's gluten and nut free. You can find California Baby at Target. Check the baby aisle, not the grown-up aisle. While there, check out the Overtired and Cranky bubble bath. I have turned down dates with some  totally average guys in order to spend the night with Overtired and Cranky bubble bath and a good book. And I have not once regretted it.   

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